Rajasthan – Jhunjhunu – A place to see and nearby excursions

Jhunjhunu, is the cultural capital of the region known as Shekhawati and has a rich history as it played an important role in the politics of Shekhawati. If local legends are to be trusted, the history of this place can be traced back to the Pandavas (from the epic, Mahabharata) who, while wandering around, had spent some time here.

In 1450 AD Muhammed Khan and his nephew Fateh Khan sought a future in the lands ruled by the Jorh Rajputs. Muhammed Khan conquered Jhunjhunu and Fateh Khan founded Fatehpur in 1451 AD Shaws Khan, son of Muhammed Khan was the first Nawab of Jhunjhunu.

After the fall of the Sayyad brothers, Nawab Fazil Khan and Rohilla Khan reclaimed Jhunjhunu and their areas were returned to them.

Rao Shekhaji was the founder of the Shekhawati branch of the Kachhawahs. Shekhawati or the “garden of Shekha” is named after him. His descendants ruled his little kingdom as vassals of the Maharajas of Jaipur, until the independence of India in 1947.

The Jhunjhunu district town has some splendidly painted havelies. Some of these are those of Narsingh Das Tibrewala, Ishwar Das Mohan Das Modi, and the Khaitans.

PLACES TO SEE

THE TEMPLE OF RANI SATI

This was initially a small temple, built by Dewan in memory of his daughter-in-law Naraini Devi. However, over the years, the temple has grown into a magnificent structure that spans a large area.

Other sights include Samas Talab, Makbara by Nawab Rohilla Khan, Moda Pahar, Sunrise Point, Khetri Mahal (a palace of the wind), Sri Ram Jait Ram Tibrewal Haveli, Badalgarh, Kamruddin Shah ki Dargah, Mertani Baori, Makbara by Nawab Samas Khan, Mazaar of the son of Captain Henry Forester, Cenotaphs of the rulers Shekhawati, Jorawar Garh, Bihari Ji Temple, Ajeet Sagar, Laxminath Temple, Six Havelis of Tibrewala, Mansha Mata and Badru ki Johri, Khetan Haveli, Khetan Baori (well), Bala Bux Tulshan Haveli, Captain Henry Forester’s Gate, Radhakrishna Temple, Jama Masjid, Leatherwork and Scissors Market (Phootla Market).

Some side excursions

EXCURSIONS

MANDAWA (25 Kms.) Mandawa has an imposing and impressive fortress, which has now been converted into a hotel. The terrace of Mandawa Castle has a beautiful view of the city. The Havelis worth visiting are those of Ladia, Goenka, Saraf and Chokhani.

ALSISAR (27 Kms.) AND MALSISAR (32 Kms.) These two cities, located at the northernmost tip of Shekhawati, were founded in the late and mid-18th century, respectively. The forts of Alsisar and Malsisar, as well as the temples and havelis of Jhunjhunwala are magnificent. The style of the frescoes here and their lively color combinations are a pleasure to behold. In addition to these painted havelis, wells and reservoirs with ornamental and traditional architecture are worth seeing in both towns.

CHURl AJITGARH (32 Kms.) This city is known for various erotic frescoes painted behind doors, bedroom ceilings and on the walls. Considering the social limitations of that time, these seem to be the result of a very private and special endeavor. Some examples of good fresco work are evident in Shiv Datt Rai Jagan Lal Tibrewal Haveli, Ram Pratap Nemani Haveli, Shiv Narain Nemani Haveli, Shiv Narain Nemani Kothi, and Shiv Narain Nemani Baithak.

DUNOLOO (32 Kms.) This small town is located in the heart of the Shekhawati region. The fort built here dates back to 1750 AD Steps lead to the Dewan Khana furnished with period portraits, tapestries and furniture. It also houses a library and portraits made in the European style. This fort is now a hotel. The Goenka Havelis and other Havelis are adorned with beautiful frescoes.

BAGGAR (14Kms.) Founded in the 15th century by the Nagar Pathans, Baggar is well known for the havelis of Rungtas and Piramal Makharia. It is strategically located at a crossroads. Built by the Ojha family, Baggar also has a large warehouse.

BISSAU (40 Kms.) This picturesque city has beautiful places including Tibrewala Haveli, Khemkha Haveli, Sigatia Haveli, Singhania Haveli, Poddar Haveli, Kanodia Haveli and Fatehpuria Haveli. Other places to see are the Raj Ki Chhatri (a cenotaph) of the Thakurs.

CHlRAWA (30 Kms.) Chirawa was popular as a trading town between Jhunjhunu and Loharu. The Dalmias and Kakranias became rich through trade and built extensive shelters here. Other havelies worth seeing here are Nemani Haveli, Manohar Lal Vardh Haveli, Rai BahadurTulsian Haveli, Kakramia well, and Shekhsaria well.

KAJRA (48 Kms.) The 19th century havelis of the Kajaria family are monuments worth seeing here.

KHETRI (70 Kms.) Khetri is known for the paintings that adorn the Raghunath Temple and Bhopalgarh Fort and was the second richest Thikana under Jaipur. The sites not to be missed are Rama Krishna Mission, Hari Singh Temple, Panna Lal ka Talab, and Sukh Mahal. From here you can go further to Bagore Fort, Ajeet Sagar and Rameshwar Das Baba ka Ashram.

LOHARGAL (70 Kms.) In the foothills of the Aravallis, is the sacred sanctuary of Lohargal. A perennial stream descends from the hills to fall into the Suraj Kund. The water of the Suraj Kund is said to possess healing qualities. The Bhim Kund, Chetan Das Baori, Gyan Baori and the temples are worth visiting.

MEHANSAR (45 Kms.)

This 18th century town has five havelies like Sone-Chandi ki Sal and business shops built by the Poddars. The work ‘Meenakari’, floral and tree motifs, bird figures as well as gilded ceilings and walls, leave the viewer in awe. The Raghunath Temple is an additional attraction.

MUKUNDGARH (26 Kms.) It has some mosques and many temples. The iron scissors, textiles and brass items made here are of very good quality. Beautiful frescoes can be seen at Kanoria, Ganeriwala, Murarka, and Saraf Havelies. Shiv Temple, Gopinath Temple and Venugopal Temple are also worth a visit.

NAWALGARH (40 Kms.) Located southwest of Jhunjhunu, this town boasts some of the best frescoes in the Shekhawati region. The havelis’ worth seeing are the complexes Aath (eight) Haveli, Bansidhar Bhagat Haveli, Chokhani Haveli, Anandilal Poddar Haveli and Jodhraj Patodia Haveli, Dangaic Haveli.

PARASRAMPURA (56 Kms.) Parasrampura is located a short distance from Nawalgarh. Some of the oldest frescoes, around AD 1750, are painted inside a temple and on the dome of the Chhatri dedicated to Shardul Singh, a descendant of Rao Shekhaji. Close to cities like Chirana, it offers some great havens and forts to delight the eye.

PILANI (45 Kms.) Once a small village, this city became famous for being the home of the prosperous Birlas, one of India’s leading industrialists. Inside the Birla Haveli, you can see a small traditional museum, Birla Institute of Technology and Sciences (BITS), Museum, Panchwati, Saraswati temple and Shivganga.

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